May 25, 2011
A review of the Covenant Lavan 2008 and the .
The Covenant Lavan 2008 ($38) has many of the same characteristics as other California chardonnays, but they are presented with a degree of restraint more often associated with white Burgundies. From grapes grown at the legendary Bacigalupi vineyard, in Sonoma’s Russian River Valley, the Lavan (which means “white” in Hebrew) is a full-bodied, silky-smooth, elegant effort with lovely peach, pear and toasty aromas that meld into layers of melon, lemon, fig and honeysuckle. The well-balanced, lengthy finish displays hints of minerals, nuts and a bit of licorice. It is easily one of the world’s best kosher chardonnays, and so an excellent choice for year-round enjoyment, as well as a warm-weather kiddush.