A review of the Domaine du Castel Rosé 2011 and a look at the Mint Julep.

By Joshua E. London and Lou Marmon

Washington Jewish Week  May 10, 2012

There are few better summer indulgences than a glass of chilled rosé. Not the horrific, semi-sweet “white” blush wines from California that remains surprisingly popular. The rosés worth drinking are “dry,” without significant residual sugar, and display bright fruit flavors balanced with crisp acidity. They are usually created by either allowing the pressed juice to have only minimal contact with the skins or by a method known as “saignee” (bleeding), which removes lightly colored juice from vats to concentrate the remaining future wine.
 

Nearly every red grape has been made into a rosé. Regardless of the methodology, the goal is to create a wine that maintains elements of the varietal’s character in a lighter more refreshing fashion.
 

Long considered one of Israel’s finest wineries, Domaine du Castel is located at the site of a former chicken ranch at Moshav Ramat Raziel in the Judean Hills. The winery produces nearly 100,000 bottles annually of kosher, nonmevushal, Bordeaux-styled blends and chardonnay. In 2009, it released a terrific merlot based rosé that was only available in Israel. Its 2011 is supposed to be more widely available and is certainly worth the search. Created from merlot, cabernet franc and malbec, the Domaine du Castel Rosé 2011 is redolent with ripe strawberries and passion fruit aromas that flow seamlessly into citrus, peach and red berry flavors. Perfectly balanced with a long finish this is yet another excellent effort by the Zaken family. Enjoy it on the deck with grilled tuna steaks or summer salad.
 

Spirits-wise, sticking with the sticky summer drinking theme, one of the greatest hot-weather cocktails of all time has to be the Southern-style mint julep.
 

In search of this nectar, one of us trekked down to “maven of mixology,” Jim Hewes, the famed barman at the Round Robin Bar of the historic Willard InterContinental Hotel – the place where this delectable cocktail was first introduced to D.C.
 

Little more than a concoction of whiskey, mint, ice, sugar and water, this mix becomes an enchanting, seductive ambrosia when mixed right: The tang of the mint perfectly balances out the sweetness of the bourbon, and the drink maintains a cool, iced, sweet and refreshing zing from start to finish.
 

Here is not only one of the best bartenders behind the stick in the nation’s capital, but he is also very knowledgeable in cocktail lore. Over an enchanting and perfectly made Southern-style mint julep, Hewes helped flesh out some of the background of the drink “in the tradition of the tired and curious science of alcohology,” as journalist H.L. Mencken once put it.
 

The mint julep is most associated these days with the Churchill Downs racetrack on Kentucky Derby day, despite the fact that every credible report of these festivities points to virtually undrinkable, pre-mixed potations that do little more than induce gambling, drunkenness and, perhaps, a mean hangover. This is a shame, if not a crime, and is probably going a long way toward slowly snuffing out this classic cocktail.
 

The julep itself is thought to date back to some ancient unrecorded point in time as a reference to potable sweetened or flavored water. “Julep” is derived from the Arabic “julab,” which comes from the Persian term “gulab” – “gul” meaning rose and “ab” meaning water. There are also 15th-century references to juleps in the poetry of John Milton and the diaries of Samuel Pepys.
 

Although pinpointing the origin of the American mint julep is highly contentious, it seems likely that it originated in Virginia rather than Kentucky. In any event, there is reason to speculate that although the drink might have originally been made with rum or cheap brandy, it probably gained its initial early prominence being made with rye whiskey.
 

At the time, rye was the most widely available distilled spirit, and the mixture is a relatively pleasant one. Indeed, around this period the mint julep took on popularity akin to the modern era’s Coca-Cola. Interestingly, posterity still demands rye for a Maryland-style mint julep, although no one ever seems to drink this variety anymore.
 

Before long, however, the drink became a favorite of the well-heeled of the South. Given that ice was hard to come by until the mid-19th century, the mint julep was essentially an aristocratic drink. By the 1830s it was often made with cognac or some other quality brandy by those who could afford the added extravagance.
 

The first clear recipe we have dates back to 1839 and calls for “equal portions of peach and common brandy,” and comes from Capt. Frederick Marryat, an Englishman chronicling his travels through the United States. A few years after this publication, however, Marryat found his way to the original Willard Hotel, where he was to receive an education in the mint julep from Sen. Henry Clay of Kentucky.
 

The Virginia-born Clay had represented Kentucky for close to 50 years already, and loved nothing more than to educate Northerners on the finer sensibilities of the South. As the thought of the rum or brandy mint julep was obviously too much for Clay, he set about demonstrating to Marryat the errors of his ways.
 

It is fortunate for us that Clay did this, because his lecture and demonstration for Marryat, replete with silver bar paraphernalia, helped spread the familiarity and popularity of the bourbon mint julep. The recipe Clay left for posterity is the closest thing to an “official” Southern-style mint julep recipe that exists today, and with minor adjustment, is the official house drink of the Round Robin Bar of the Willard InterContinental Hotel. Here is Hewes’ recipe:
 

Place eight to 10 red-stemmed mint leaves, one teaspoon of granulated sugar and an ounce of bourbon (we prefer Maker’s Mark for this) in the bottom of a collins glass or a julep glass or a tall bar glass, and lightly muddle this using the heel of a butter knife until it forms a tea. Fill the glass halfway with finely crushed or cracked ice, and then vigorously stir using the business end of the butter knife to cut through the mix and ensure that the taste will be uniform throughout. Add another heaping of the ice, keeping it tightly packed almost like a snow cone. Pour in equal measures of bourbon and sparkling branch water (like San Pellegrino). Garnish with a fresh sprig of mint to which the stem has been bruised (to release a bit more of that mint flavor), add a twist of lemon peel, and then dust the top with granulated sugar. Serve with two short stirrer straws so that you have to put your nose right into the bouquet to sip it. L’Chaim!
 
 

A review of the Gvaot Gofna Chardonnay-Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 and Grand Old Parr 12 year old De Luxe Scotch Whisky.

By Joshua E. London and Lou Marmon

Washington Jewish Week  May 2, 2012

Integral to Jewish belief and religious practice is the concept of separation. Many objects, certain behaviors and even time itself are differentiated as either holy or secular and mundane. The dietary laws exclude certain foods, while demanding that some foods first be elevated from mundane to holy before they may be consumed.
 

Jewish law also separates milk and meat, from which Kabbalists derive a dynamic to separate life (milk) from death (meat) so as to avoid a spiritual clash. Other separation-type regulations are agricultural, such as the prohibition against mixing seeds in a vineyard or the grafting of different species of trees and vegetables, hybridization of domestic and wild animals, or plowing or driving with domestic or nondomestic animals of different species. Some defy categorization like the rule proscribing a mixture of linen and wool.
 

Fortunately there are no rules that forbid the vinification and mixing of different types of grapes. Blending varietals is a standard approach in winemaking and has been practiced in regions like Bordeaux for centuries. This gives the winemaker the ability to highlight the best characteristics of different grapes to produce a harmonious final product. Even wines that have only one grape listed on the label often have small amounts of other varieties mixed in to provide more body, aromas and flavors.
 

Blending also stimulates a sense of vinicultural adventure. Founded in 2005 by Shivi Drori and Amnon Weiss, Gvaot Winery is located in Israel’s Shomron region and produces 20,000 bottles annually. A unique blend of 80 percent chardonnay and 20 percent cabernet sauvignon, the Gvaot Gofna Chardonnay-Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 is surprisingly successful. Full-bodied with tropical fruit aromas it shows a wide flavor profile including stone fruits, red berries and citrus touched gently with cedar and some spice with a bright finish. Out of the ordinary and certainly conversation-stimulating, serve it with chicken and other light summer fare.
 

Of course, the art of blending is as essential to making tea and cigars as it is to the wines of Bordeaux or Champagne. Blending is also fundamental to the whisky industry. In Scotch whisky, for example, blended whisky accounts for 92 percent of global Scotch sales or 82 million cases annually. That staggering figure alone suggests that at least some of this ocean of blended whisky is worth drinking, sales figures are hard to argue with.
 

To put it another way, the proverbial customer is always right – even if thoroughly sozzled on cheap, blended whisky. By cheap we mean simply relatively inexpensive, rather than “cheap.” Though, frankly, it isn’t all so cheap these days either.
 

Take, for example, the Johnnie Walker “Blue Label” ($200) or the Chivas Regal “Royal Salute” 21-year-old Scotch Whisky ($220). Both are excellent blended whiskies designed for high-end consumption, but more interesting whisky can be had for much, much less.
 

At the mid-range of the price spectrum, consider the harder-to-find but well-worth-seeking-out Grand Old Parr 12 year old De Luxe Scotch Whisky (40 percent abv; $30): a lovely light and crisp, bordering on flinty, yet mouthwatering whisky that offers aromas and flavors of malted barley, honeyed cereal grains, toasted nuts, java, buttered white bread toast, soft fruity notes, very gentle wafts of smoke with a long, heavy and complex finish of delicate black pepper, mocha and the slightest hint of smoke. Grand Old Parr is named for Thomas Parr, said to be Britain’s oldest man when he died in 1635 at the reported age of 152 (he is buried in Westminster Abbey, London). Grand Old Parr is also a huge seller in Japan, where it was first introduced soon after its creation in 1909. L’Chaim!
 
 

Review of Bravdo Karmei Yosef Shiraz 2009 and a look at 2 Bourbon’s without an age statement, Basel Hayden and Old Grand Dad.

By Joshua E. London and Lou Marmon

Washington Jewish Week  April 25, 2012

Making wine is a marriage of nature and technology. The interaction of yeast and grapes has been investigated for centuries with the results implemented in the vineyards and wineries. But winemaking is not an exact science, and great wines are not a result of formulas or recipes. Inspiration also has its role, especially when based upon a sound scientific foundation.
 

For Hebrew University oenology professors Ben Ami Bravdo and Oded Shoseyov, the opportunity to apply their scientific knowledge began in 1999 when they decided to establish a winery at Moshav Karmei Yosef in the Judean Hills. The Bravdo Winery released its first 2,800 bottles in 2001, though the land that the winery was established on has a grape growing history that spans thousands of years. The winery currently produces 40,000 bottles annually of cabernet sauvignon, shiraz, merlot, chardonnay and a red blend called “coupage.” Considered among the finest of Israel’s boutique wineries, Bravdo wines have has been kosher since 2007.
 

The professors share the winemaking responsibilities and the results have been consistently inspired including their excellent Bravdo Karmei Yosef Shiraz 2009 ($ 30), an intensely earthly and dark fruit flavored effort. It begins with blackberries and dark plums along with typical shiraz spiciness that moves boldly into currants, mocha and cedar accented black cherries and a well-balanced, long slightly herbal and finish.
 

Spirits-wise, we thought we’d turn our attention to a new trend in bourbon whiskey – the rise of bourbons with no age statement on the label. Beam, Inc., for example, recently had a new non-age statement label approved for its Basil Hayden Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey which has been bottled as an 8-year-old whiskey since it first hit the market about 20 years ago. It hasn’t actually changed yet in the market to non-aged, but we guess it is just a matter of time now.
 
W. L. Weller Special Reserve Bourbon, to cite another example, recently lost its age statement too (it was a seven-year-old bourbon). Devoted bourbon drinkers will recall that this has happened to other bourbons as well in the last few years: “Old Weller Antique” used to be a 7 year old, “Evan Williams 1783” used to be a 10 year old, “Evan Williams” black label used to be a 7 year old, etc.
 

In the varied but small world of bourbon aficionados, debates run wild as to whether these changes mark the “death” of the age statement and again as to whether or not this “death” is good or bad for the world of bourbon whiskey. We think it still too early to formulate any opinion, but we thought it worthy of comment.
 

First of all, keep in mind that an “age statement” on a label of spirit produced or imported into the United States is a declaration that the stated age refers to the youngest constituent whiskey in the bottle. Age statements are regulated by the Alcohol Tax and Trade Bureau, a branch of the U.S. Treasury. So if the producer blended one barrel of 4-year-old bourbon with 400 barrels of 8-year-old bourbon and 450 barrels of 12-year-old bourbon, any age statement placed on the label of the final product must reflect the 4-year-old whiskey in the mix. They do not have to make any age statement, but if they do it must be of the youngest constituent whiskey. Older whiskey may be added to their heart’s content, but nothing younger than the stated age on the label is permitted in the bottle.
 

An additional regulation in American whiskey is that age statements are required for any products that are less than 4 years old. So if the bottle lacks an age statement, then consumers can be certain that, by law, that whiskey is at least 4 years old.
 

This is label specific. Any information not on the label is not regulated. If the age claim is not on the label but only in the other marketing material, it may not be a bold-faced lie, but then it may be true.
 
Age statements are nonessential, and are no guarantee of quality or drinkability, but they are familiar and whiskey drinkers tend to be very traditional about these things. Age statements also help in product differentiation – especially for folks who tend to like older bourbons and make exploratory choices based on this preference. Sure, there may be different label names for each category, but one has to be familiar with the specific product line to know the difference. Without a regulated age statement, consumers have to take the product differentiation on faith.
 

On the other hand, producers are in this for the long haul and they are committed to maintaining a consistent taste profile for their brands. They are not looking to cheat anyone or trick them into buying cheap or inferior whiskey. They want happy, repeat customers after all. By ditching age statements, producers have more flexibility in delivering quality products without having to be constrained by self-made, but government regulated, boundaries.
 

As you ponder all this, consider sampling both of these enjoyable bourbon whiskies:
 

Old Grand-Dad 100 Proof Bonded Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey (50 percent abv; $19): there are several expressions available, but this is our favorite – an old-fashioned brusque and tough, spicy and dry whiskey that commands respect, often inspires a comparatively outre “whiskey face” during consumption, yet offers a sumptuous, buttery feel on the palate with a lovely balance of wood, grain and yeast, that manages to be both sweet and spicy, with additional aromas and flavors of rye, cinnamon, tangy fruit, ginger and allspice.
 

Basil Hayden’s 8 Year Old Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey (40 percent abv; $40): Basil Hayden’s is part of Jim Beam’s “Small Batch Collection,” along with Baker’s, Booker’s, and Knob Creek. Basil Hayden’s has the most rye in its mash bill (grain formula), it’s the lowest proof at 80, and the lightest bodied. It is also well-crafted and delicious, with aromas of vanilla, caramelized sugar, cinnamon, dried fruit, a trace of something like mint, and pistachio, with additional flavors of honey, spicy cinnamon, brown sugar/maple syrup, anise, and orange peel, with a slightly clipped but enjoyable finish. Not overly complex, but very easy drinking.
 

Note that Basil Hayden is basically just the tried-and-true Old Grand-Dad Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey that has been aged eight years and then diluted to 80° proof/40% abv, but that extra age and that change in proof make for a totally different product. L’Chaim!
 
 

Wine recommendations for picnics and outdoor concerts.

By Lou Marmon

Gazette Newspapers  April 25, 2012

Wolf Trap Foundation for the Performing Arts is a true national treasure. The almost 5 acres of available picnic space, an extensive and wide-ranging performance schedule and a liberal alcohol policy allowing patrons to bring their own wine and beer assures a wonderful experience without the over-charging for beverages found at other concert locations. It is the ideal venue to enjoy wines suited to picnicking in the warmer weather.
 

Wolf Trap is the only National Park dedicated to the performing arts. Created from 100 acres of farmland donated by the late Catherine Filene Shouse in the 1960s, the Wolf Trap Filene Center was opened in 1971 and rebuilt in 1984. Located in a slight bowl among the property’s rolling hills, the under-cover outdoor performance center is open at the sides and back allowing those sitting on the surrounding lawn to enjoy the shows. Almost every style of music is offered including contemporary, jazz, opera, classic and country throughout a nearly 100 show schedule running from May to September.
 

Picnicking is remarkably easy for tourists and locals alike since there is ample parking, the doors open one and a half hours before all performances and you can bring your own food or order from their catering service. Although lawn seats are first-come, first-serve, there is more than enough room and visibility for the 3,160 lawn tickets available for every show. Many patrons bring small tables, lawn chairs, customized picnic baskets and individual wine-glass and bottle holders that secure into the ground while others opt for the more traditional blankets and coolers.
 

If planning an outing, wines should be similarly unpretentious with bright fruit flavors and balance to match the typical picnic fare.
 

Luckily, the arrival of spring also is the beginning of Rosé wine season. Prominent fruit flavors balanced with crisp acidity characterize Rosés and contribute to their food-friendly character. Made from Pinot Noir the Toad Hollow “Eye of the Toad” Rosé 2011 ($13) exhibits delightful raspberry, strawberry and cinnamon flavors with hints of licorice accenting the citrus acidity. The grapes used to create the Field Stone Rosé of Petite Sirah 2011 ($20) were from vines planted in 1894 and the resulting wine is joyfully complex with red cherry and raspberry aromas along with plum and cranberry notes leading to a spicy earthiness on its finish. A perennial favorite from Chile is the floral-scented Montes Cherub Rosé of Syrah 2011 ($17) that shows raspberry, citrus and cherry notes along with some typical syrah spice coupled with an underlying richness and a suggestion of tannins that give it a bit more structure than other Rosés.
 

With each bottle selling for $10, SeaGlass wines seem specifically designed for budget-oriented, warm-weather dining. Sourced from Santa Barbara, the SeaGlass Sauvignon Blanc 2011 has bright tangerine, lime and grapefruit flavors along with some of the varietal’s characteristic grassy notes. The SeaGlass Riesling 2011 originates from Monterey and reveals the ocean breeze influence in its apple and stone fruit flavors that are nicely balanced with citrus acidity. Their SeaGlass Pinot Noir 2010 is lighter in style but still food-friendly with red berry, dark cherry and vanilla flavors.
 

Some of California’s best Sauvignon Blancs come from the Dry Creek Vineyard. They were the first in the region to plant the varietal and their experience shows in two of their most recent releases including the value-priced Dry Creek Vineyard Fume Blanc 2011 ($14) that displays a symphony of lemon, passion fruit, grapefruit and apple flavors with hints of herbs and honey. Pineapple and lemon aromas and flavors predominate in the Dry Creek Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2010 ($16) that also expresses a mélange of tropical fruits on a medium-bodied, melon and grassy frame.

Review of the Galil Mountain Viognier 2009 and several Balvinie Single Malt Scotches.

By Joshua E. London and Lou Marmon

Washington Jewish Week  April 19, 2012

The arrival of spring means it is time to kick back on the deck with a chilled glass of white wine. For many, chardonnay is their white wine of choice. But there are many other wine options for warm weather enjoyment. One of our favorites is Viognier, a very aromatic varietal with prominent fruit flavors and floral aromas.
 

For many years Viognier was a popular grape, especially in France’s northern Rhone Valley where it was blended with syrah or bottled alone. It is a difficult grape to cultivate and that is what likely led to viognier almost becoming extinct in the mid 1960s. Fortunately there has been a revival of interest in viognier not only in France but also in the U.S., South America, Australia and Israel.
 

The Galil Mountain Winery is a project established jointly by the Golan Heights Winery and Kibbutz Yiron in Israel’s Upper Galilee. This mountainous area has been a grape-growing region for thousands of years. Founded in 2000, Galil Mountain Winery currently produces 13 different blends and single varietals including Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Barbera. The delightful Galil Mountain Viognier 2009 ($14) has peach and floral aromas with tangerine, nectarine and apricot flavors on a medium-bodied frame with a very pleasant finish. It practically sings springtime and is a wonderful match with barbecue or spicy foods.
 

Spirits-wise, now that chametz is back it is time to roll up our collective sleeves and make up for some lost time – in moderation of course. We thought we’d start with a revisit to The Balvenie single malt Scotch whisky (thebalvenie.com). Earlier this month, before Pesach, we were fortunate enough to get invited to a special Balvenie tasting here in the D.C. area at the Longview Gallery (1234 Ninth Street N.W.). Only one of us was able to attend, and so lamentably had to drink for both of us … alas.
 

Following the fun press-portion, was a fantastic tasting for Balvenie fans centered on their nationwide roadshow tour, “The Balvenie Rare Craft Experience.” The Balvenie hails itself as “the most handcrafted Single Malt Scotch Whisky,” so to celebrate this fact, and highlight craftsmanship generally, Balvenie’s brand ambassadors, Andrew Weir and Nicholas Pollachi, are touring the country in a handmade Morgan car, meeting with craftsmen to learn about their crafts. They have encountered everything from handmade jewelry in Hot Springs, Ark., to metal art in Seattle, Wash., to metalsmithing in Livonia, N.Y., to cool-looking functional bicycles handcrafted of bamboo right here in D.C. (threepennybikes.com) – and plenty of other crafts, as well. Many of these crafts were on display in the art gallery including the cool bicycle, and their handmade Morgan car.
 

Just to gild the marketing lily, the Balvenie created a “malting floor” exhibit where guests could touch and smell malt and shovel the grains to their heart’s content. They also produced a side tasting room for one of the older expressions of Balvenie whisky. This room was fitted with mock “ye olde” warehouse doors to replicate the entrance to their beloved “Warehouse No. 24″ (which is simply the oldest surviving part of the distillery, seized upon by the marketing folks; now also the name of their online club for fans – which, if nothing else, puts one on the mailing list for tasting events like this).
 

The mood throughout was cool and convivial, and the drams flowed freely. A great event in every respect. Which brings us back to the most important part of the whole thing — the whisky!
 

The available range that evening included some favorite standbys and, for the earlier press session, an incredible though hard to find limited edition. We’ve previously reviewed the Balvenie Peated Cask ($130) which is good and intriguing, especially for us peat freaks, and the 14-year-old Balvenie “Caribbean Cask” ($60) which is excellent. So here then are some great Balvenie whiskies to sample as soon as possible to wash away all thoughts of Pesach’s restrictive diet.
 

Balvenie 12-year-old Doublewood Single Malt Whisky (40 percent ABV; $45): this dependable old favorite is sweet and nutty, with aromas and flavors of honey, malt, gentle spice notes, vanilla, toffee, bananas, candied peanuts, walnuts, a whisper of peat in the background, ending in a lovely dry, spicy, warming finish.
 

The Balvenie Single Barrel, 15 years old (47.8 percent ABV; $75): Per the name, this whisky is a single cask, single malt – meaning that the distillery essentially just empties the barrel into (around 350) bottles without first vatting the cask with other similarly aged casks to create more of a uniform product (“single malt” simply means it came from a single distillery). This is much closer than we normally get from official distillery bottling to our preferred whisky presentation of single cask, cask strength, non chill-filtered, caramel-coloring free. (The more natural and un-finessed the whisky, the more unique, individual and particular will be the whisky.) This particular example is an enjoyable ex-bourbon cask-aged expression with delicate honeyed malt sweetness and a melange of dried fruits on the nose, followed by bold and arresting flavors of malt, ripe fruit, honey, vanilla, maple syrup, citrus fruits (oranges, mandarins, nectarines), lemon rind, dried apricot, pralines, a hint of something more tropical (like pineapple), coconut, pepper, some slight clove, and subtle notes of star anise. Not overly deep or complex, but solid and delicious.
 

Balvenie PortWood, 21 years old (40 percent ABV; $190): note that in duty-free stores, this whisky is 47.6 percent ABV and is non chill-filtered): this is an exceptional whisky in oh so many ways, revealing some serious depth and concentration. With elegant and indulgent aromas of white peach, sultanas, candied fruit, marzipan, cocoa and a whisper of smoke, the whisky presents an enjoyably complex and silky medley of flavors including vanilla, Tupelo honey, oily malted barley, mouth-drying nuttiness, buttered scones, raisins, poached pear, caramel apple, red fruits, anise, cinnamon, cocoa, and a distinct yet pleasant wine-cellar mustiness in the background, with a slightly bitter, agreeably graceful finish. This is a marvelously indulgent and rewarding postprandial dram.
 

Balvenie Tun 1401 “Batch #3″ (50.3 percent ABV; $250): this limited-edition whisky, available for the first time in the U.S. starting last October (our shores missed Batches #1 and #2), is a special vatting of various-aged whiskies from Balvenie’s Warehouse No. 24 which were married together in the warehouse in a large vat (aka a “tun”) before bottling. The whisky is rich and sweet on the nose, with notes of tropical fruit, marzipan, vanilla, honey, some spice and a hint of dried coconut, charred oak, and with additional notes on the palate of spice, vanilla, black currant, orange peel, nectarine, honey, custard, pistachios, walnuts and almonds, apple sauce, and a touch of cocoa and star anise. The finish is long, sweetish and spicy. A bit too expensive, but impressive and delicious! L’Chaim!

Reviews of the Flam Classico 2010, Casa Vieja Tequilas, Tio Pepe Fino Sherry and Dupuy XO Cognac.

By Joshua E. London and Lou Marmon

Washington Jewish Week  April 12, 2012

One of the major advantages of being a relatively new winemaking region is the lack of rules and regulations that govern viticulture and vinification compared with the Old World wine-producing regions.
 

In France, for example, most of the best winegrowing areas are beset by myriad governmental regulations which mandate specific grape varietals are grown in precisely delineated locations, and prohibit certain agricultural practices, and in some instances even prohibit blending different grapes. Not so for “New World” wine producers.
 

Among “New World” producers, experimentation, creativity and risk are the bywords of their craft. This is especially true in Israel.
 

Despite a winemaking tradition that reaches back several thousand years, Israel’s true modern, quality winemaking experience began in the 1980s. So although the ancient winemaking tradition is intact, the specific technologies and understandings of the craft employed by the ancients have been cross-checked by modern methods and science, and anything out of date has been left behind. Further, microregulations that beset French appellations do not exist in Israel, and every winery, regardless of size, is free to try different approaches. The results, thankfully, are wines shaped more by consumer preferences than government bureaucracy.
 

The family-owned Flam Winery is an example of both individuality and high quality. Located in the Judean Hills close to Beit Shemesh, Flam has embraced a distinctively Mediterranean feel heavily influenced by Italian (specifically Tuscan) winemaking. Since its first releases in 1998, Flam has garnered both critical and popular acclaim and has recently become certified kosher. Winemaker Golan Flam previously worked in Italy and Australia and the patriarch, Israel Flam, was the senior winemaker at Carmel. They produce wines of great elegance under several different labels including Reserve, Superiore and Classico.
 

Classico is a term utilized in the Italian Tuscany region to identify the original four villages that were the officially authorized producers of Chianti wine. Like the Italian Chianti, which is a combination of several varietals, the Flam Classico is also a blend. But rather than based upon the traditional Chianti grape sangiovese, Flam’s rule-breaking Classico is a Bordeaux-like blend and is styled for early enjoyment rather than aging. Their nonmevushal Flam Classico 2010 ($28) contains 50 percent merlot with 42 percent cabernet sauvignon, 5 percent cabernet franc and 3 percent petit verdot. Medium-bodied, nicely balanced and very smooth with alluring fruit aromas of blackberries and dark cherries, it displays slightly spicy berry, dark plum and cherry flavors with noticeable minerality and a touch of black olives, oak and mint in the pleasant finish.
 

Spirits-wise, kosher-for-Passover options, though they can be of very good quality these days, are still rather small in number and varieties. This is unavoidable and should not be lamented as such – after all, during Passover we are enjoined not only to refrain from consuming chametz but from owning chametz, and even from seeing chametz in our domains. So grain alcohol, such as all forms of whiskey, are simply off-limits.
 

Last year we recommended two different kosher-for-Passover tequilas, and both are still on the market and available at Potomac Wines & Spirits in Georgetown and at various online retailers. These were the nonaged Casa Vieja Blanco ($40) and the aged Casa Vieja Anejo ($45). The blanco offers clean, moderate agave character, with aromatic hints of citrus, chamomile, peppermint, and pepper, with typical, intense agave dry-yet-fruity flavors with notes of grilled papaya and pineapple, floral honey, and green peppercorn, and additional whispers of white pepper and star anise on the short finish. The anejo offers aromas of orange zest, smoke and sweet caramel, with a dry medium-bodied, balanced palate featuring classic roasted agave flavors, with additional notes of salt, spice, pepper and a touch of honey on the finish – a dry, reserved style with a true agave character and a refined appeal.
 

We also previously recommended the kosher-for-Passover certified Tio Pepe Fino Sherry ($24; be certain to check it is the kosher version as the nonkosher version is very widely available and the kosher version is a much more limited, more expensive run).
 

This is really just another wine, not a spirit, but it is a fortified wine – meaning spirit is added to it to at a certain point in its development. This extra alcohol gives it something of a kick, and is somewhat of an acquired taste. Tio Pepe Fino Sherry is bone-dry fortified wine, offering a pleasing mix of flavors including almonds, walnuts, fruits, fresh olive oil, salty crackers and Granny Smith apples. Tio Pepe has a lovely long and smooth finish that is dry, refreshing, a little tangy, and a tad herbaceous. It is an excellent aperitif and seriously whets the appetite; regionally it is most commonly enjoyed with the meal itself. Not for all tastes, but an excellent and pleasurable wine, it should be drunk young and well chilled – ideally within a few hours of opening – but it’ll keep in the fridge for about a week without too much deterioration.
 

There are also a variety of kosher-for-Passover brandies and cognacs available at different price and quality categories along the spectrum. Many of these are very good, and worth trying. One good and interesting example is the Dupuy XO Cognac ($85). This smooth and aromatic cognac spent over a dozen years maturing in Limousin French oak casks and showcases generous notes of vanilla and cinnamon, with a good and balanced mid-palate with dried fruits and additional notes of walnuts, dates and almonds, all leading up to an enjoyable and involved if slightly clipped finish. L’Chaim!
 
 

A review of the Distillery No. 209 Kosher for Passover Gin and Vodka along with a look at the Shiloh Winery.

By Joshua E. London and Lou Marmon

Washington Jewish Week  April 4, 2012

Before the Temple was built, before Jerusalem became the center of Jewish national and religious life, Shiloh was Israel’s capital. It was the place where the “whole congregation of Israel assembled” to set up the Mishkan (Tabernacle). Today, Shiloh is also the name of one of Israel’s most well-regarded boutique wineries. The winery is situated in the modern – and Modern Orthodox-community of Shiloh, which is just a few dozen meters from Tel Shiloh, the archaeological site that is widely thought to be all that remains of the pre-Davidic capital of the Jewish nation where the Talmud tells us the Mishkan stood for 369 years. Established in 2005, the winery’s roots actually go back thousands of years as evidenced by the ancient winepresses found in the nearby Samarian (Shomron) hills.
 

“A quality wine,” notes Amichai Luria, winemaker at Shiloh Winery, “must have ancient roots; the roots of our winemaking tradition stretch back 3,000 years.” One need not buy into this precise formulation to recognize the clear quality of his wines
 

The modern Shiloh Winery was developed by Mayer Chomer, a Mexican-born-and-raised Jewish entrepreneur, with Syrian Jewish roots. Chomer dreamt of starting a winery in Israel and was fortunate enough to find and hire the American-born and Israeli-raised Luria as his winemaker. Chomer tasted some of Luria’s homemade hobby wines, recognized talent and a kindred spirit, and gave Luria the opportunity to turn his avocation into a vocation.
 

Chomer also likes to point out that the quality of Shiloh wines is in part attributable to the biblical promise to Joseph and his sons that their portion of the Land of Israel would bring forth great quality wines. Not that Chomer was content to invest entirely based on his reading of the Torah. “I am an idealist,” he notes, “but a very pragmatic idealist.” So when Chomer wanted to open the winery and make his dream come true, he did his homework first.
 

“After doing some research, I was convinced that the Shomron is by far the best terrain in Israel for wine,” he says, and his sights zeroed in on Shiloh. Consultations with agronomists and other experts confirmed his conclusions and helped guide his eventual vineyard plantings.
 

As Luria proudly notes, “I am growing grapes in these mountains. Not in the Golan Heights, not in Tel Aviv. But here. It’s the most natural thing in the world.”
 

Shiloh makes wines at several levels including their flagship “Mosaic” red blend, the “Legend,” a blend of Shiraz, Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot and Merlot, and their Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Barbera “mor” blend along with their single varietal and occasionally blended “Shor” series. Shiloh’s wines have won numerous awards and their Reserve wines recently swept the Gold Medals for Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz at Israel’s most important wine-judging event, Eshkol HaZahav.
 

Their wines are certified kosher for Passover by three different rabbinic authorities including the OK.
 

Spirits-wise, there are various enjoyable kosher-for-Passover-certified varieties these days. Please note, however, and we made a point of this last year as well, nongrain-based alcoholic products require certification and cannot be presumed to be acceptable as kosher for Passover. For example, it is often thought that any 100-percent potato vodka should automatically be acceptable for Passover, since potato is not a grain. While potato vodka is a good candidate for being made kosher for Passover, for this to actually happen, the distiller may only use a kosher-for-Passover source for amylase, the enzyme that catalyses the breakdown of starch into sugar so that fermentation can take place. This is most typically done with malted barley, which is most definitely chametz, so before buying such nongrain based alcoholic products, we highly recommend that you either buy a certified kosher-for-Passover product or, at the very least, check with your preferred kashrut authority.
 

There are fine certified kosher for Passover spirits available, though there are plenty of awful options, too. The traditional nasty, cheap Slivovitz or rotgut Carmel 777 brandy is easy to find, but why bother? Two newer products worthy of consideration, both from San Francisco’s artisanal Distillery No. 209, is the No. 209 Kosher for Passover Gin (40% abv; $40) which was launched in 2010 and the No. 209 Kosher for Passover Vodka ($30) which was launched last month. Be sure to look for the OU-P certification as the distillery’s regular run is not kosher for Passover.
 

The No. 209 Kosher for Passover vodka is basically the gin without the herbs, spices and botanicals for added flavor. It is a clean, burn-free, neutral spirit. It is great vodka, and like all quality vodka is notable mostly for the subtleties of its otherwise tasteless and odorless delivery.
 

The gin is something special, and was developed by Distillery No. 209′s gin-maker Arne Hillesland and Jonathon Hadju, associate winemaker from the excellent kosher Covenant Wines. Beyond the change of base spirit from grain to sugar cane for this run of their gin, several key botanicals used in the regular product (like cardamom) were also not suitable for Passover. The exact formulation is obviously a trade secret, but they came up with OU-P acceptable substitutes. Along with their juniper berry from Tuscany, we know it also includes bergamot orange from Calabria, Italy, California bay leaf from Mt. Veeder in the Napa Valley, lemon peel from Spain, cassia bark from Indonesia, angelica root from Britain and coriander seeds from Romania.
 

We actually like their Pesach version slightly more than their regular gin. The No. 209 Kosher for Passover Gin is smooth, fragrant and tasty with traditional notes of juniper berry and citrus fruit, an herbal element lurks in the depths, and with a pleasing dollop of spice (like coriander and allspice), and a subtle undercurrent of sweetness. L’Chaim!
 
 

Montgomery County’s Department of Liquor Control Emphasizes Customer Service

By Lou Marmon

Gazette Newspapers  April 4, 2012

After Prohibition, every State and many local jurisdictions established their own rules regarding the sale and distribution of alcohol. Many Americans bristle at the thought of additional layers of governmental oversight and the agency that regulates wine, beer and spirits is often subject to criticism. However, these local boards can also provide their constituents with some specific benefits.
 

Established in 1933, the Montgomery County Department of Liquor Control (DLC) has heard its share of complaints. Many of these issues are not really their responsibility but are a result of superseding State regulations. But there remain questions about availability, pricing, the ability to obtain special bottlings and the expertise of their employees.
 

Over the past several years, the DLC has actively addressed these concerns by becoming more consumer-oriented.
 

“The goal is to run the system like a private enterprise,” says Gus Montes de Oca, Chief of Operations. “We want each of our 24 stores to focus on taking care of our customers.”
 

The DLC has expanded their training with seminars lead by winemakers, distillers and other experts “so our staff can be a resource,” and they have instructed their employees to actively offer assistance.
 

“Some employees enjoy interacting with customers, and we encourage them to do so,” says Diane Wurdeman, Retail Operations Manager. “They will do whatever they can to fill particular requests, either by calling the other stores or us at the main office to hunt down special items.”
 

She tells the story of an employee who tracked down some wines for a wedding and then drove from store-to-store to get them for the customer in time for the reception.
 

Another of the lesser-known benefits of the DLC is its availability. Both Gus and Diane regularly answer numerous emails and calls asking for specific wines or spirits.
 

“If it is available in the State, we can usually get it for them, and often for less than what they would spend if they bought and shipped it themselves,” says Gus.
 

The DLC has a list of 300 to 400 highly sought after “allocated wines” such as California cult Cabernets and first-growth Bordeaux that are available via a waiting list to Montgomery County residents. Its large buying power means that the DLC usually gets a bigger share of these wines than other areas of the country. And because they are service oriented rather than profit focused, the mark-ups on these more expensive wines are less than usual. This also holds for rarer spirits such as limited edition bourbon and single malt scotch.
 

The DLC is very sensitive to pricing with mark-ups of 28 percent for wine and 18 percent for spirits over wholesale, which are comparable to or lower than most private stores. They also pass on any savings like the recent shipment of Talisker 18 year Single Malt Scotch priced $30 less than anywhere else in the country. And when the high scores given to the 2005 Bordeaux resulted in their prices all over the nation to skyrocket, the DLC sold its allocation for merely the standard mark up rather than increasing to the U.S. market prices.
 

“Because we are the ‘government’ we have to be better,” says Diane.
 

The director of the DLC, George F. Griffin, agrees. “People assume the government doesn’t do anything right,” he says. “So we work hard to prove them wrong.”
 

Future plans include store renovations to make them “a more welcoming environment,” additional stores, enhancing searchable online inventory and being able to email sale notifications to consumers. These changes will certainly make the benefits of the DLC less of a secret.
 
 

A review of the Tulip Just Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, the Tulip Just Merlot 2010 and the Glennfiddich Cask of Dreams Single Malt Scotch Whisky.

By Joshua E. London and Lou Marmon

Washington Jewish Week  March 28, 2012

With the onset of spring it seems appropriate that our next Passover seder wine suggestions are from Israel’s Tulip Winery.
 

Established in 2003 by the Yitzhaki family, the winery rests on a hillside overlooking the Jezreel Valley in Kfar Tikva, a unique community that is home to 200 emotionally and developmentally disabled adults aged 20 to 74. This pastoral “Village of Hope” is recognized as one of the most innovative locations in Israel for adults with special needs. The village has a staff of 85, and 20 full-time volunteers from Israel and abroad, and their philosophy includes integrating the residents within the community at large, and providing creative and productive outlets for them – such as working at the local candle factory, craft workshops or the Tulip Winery.
 

Several of the Kfar Tikva residents are employed at the Tulip Winery, participating in different aspects of wine production and winery activity – from taking part in the harvest, helping to bottle and package wines, to staffing the winery’s visitor center. When Tulip first decided to go kosher, however, their community work with the residents of Kfar Tikvah raised some rabbinic concerns.
 

Nonreligious employees always pose a certain basic level of concern in any kosher winery. It’s nothing insurmountable if the desire to go kosher is strong enough, but it certainly requires training, policies and protocols and often newer winery technology to better control human contact with the grape juice and the wine. The additional “special needs” dimension required additional attention and sensitivity to developing the most appropriate and workable kashrut supervision arrangements and understandings. The OK U.S.-based kosher certification agency developed a workable approach – one which involved some shifting of employee roles, and, most dramatic, a separation of the winery’s visitor center from the winery itself, enabling the center to continue to stay open on Shabbos and to offer tastings.
 

One of Tulip’s most interesting projects is the “Do Not Label” initiative which “was created out of the belief that labels should be put on wine, not on an entire population.” They held an art contest among the Kfar Tikva residents and the winner, David Ashkenazi, designed a colorful label that now adorns their Bordeaux-style blend “Black Tulip.” Another resident designed the label for their port-style “Esperanza” whose Spanish name translates into “hope.”
 

Tulip produces nearly 100,000 bottles annually from vineyards scattered throughout Israel in several series including a single varietal “Reserve,” their “Just” series and their “Mostly” line of varietal blends. The delightfully aromatic Tulip Just Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 ($29) begins with currant, cocoa and raspberry aromas that extend into plum, vanilla, cassis and tobacco notes mixed nicely with oak and blackberries. The Tulip Just Merlot 2010 ($29) is softer and scented with spicy plum and cloves along with flavors of dark berries and cherries accented with cedar and blueberries.
 

Shifting from a winery with such a strong, positive, feel-good, community-conscience outlook to any old grain alcohol can be a tad de-spiriting, if you’ll forgive pun. So spirits-wise, we thought we’d turn for our final pre-Passover selection to the new limited edition Glenfiddich Cask of Dreams Single Malt Scotch Whisky (48.8 percent ABV; $115.99).
 

The “Cask of Dreams” expression is part of the Glenfiddich Distillery’s yearlong 125th Anniversary celebrations over here in the U.S. The Glenfiddich Distillery was actually founded in 1886 by William Grant, but the first spirit did not roll off the stills until Dec. 25, 1887 – 125 years ago. Since that moment, Glenfiddich has grown to become one of the world’s greatest selling single malt Scotch whiskies – and all the while the distillery has remained not just in Scottish hands, but in the same Scottish family’s hands: William Grant & Sons.
 

Why “Cask of Dreams”? Here’s the basic premise: Last year, in 2011, Glenfiddich shipped 11 brand new American white oak casks from the Ozarks to different major American cities and encouraged folks to sign the barrels with notes of their life-inspirations. Each “signing event” was obviously a whisky-tasting affair at which folks had fun, drank copious amounts of whisky, and presumably solidified – even if only a little bit – their loyalty to the mighty Glenfiddich brand.
 

These U.S.-fan-autographed casks were then shipped back to the distillery and filled with specially selected mature (14 to 16 years old) single malt whisky that had previously aged exclusively in used-bourbon casks. The whisky was further “finished” for three months in the new virgin white oak barrels in Warehouse Number 8 for an additional three months of close monitoring by Glenfiddich Malt Master Brian Kinsman. Only 3,500 bottles were produced from these 11 casks.
 

The primary maturation in used bourbon barrels brings certain qualities to the whisky – vanilla, for example, floral characteristic, and generally some degree of smoke from the charring. All oak barrels must be charred in the production of bourbon. Finishing this whisky in uncharred virgin oak in which the cask is more chemically volatile imparts flavor characteristics that tend to be more pungent – especially in the short term. This is why Kinsman sampled the whisky every few weeks, just to make certain this marketing wheeze didn’t result in over-oaked, resin and stewed-fruit driven, flat and uninspired whisky. It is very easy for such experiments to go horribly wrong – in which case the whisky would probably have been dumped into a blend where its negative qualities could be washed out by sheer volume. So even though three months seems a particularly short period of time for “finishing” a whisky – rest assured that it was cut short for good reason.
 

Part marketing schtick and part excellent wood management, this “Cask of Dreams” whisky is a delightful and dangerously easy drinking single malt. The whisky presents with aromas and flavors of fruit leather, dried fig, dried apricot, dried black cherry, overripe pear, ginger, cinnamon, cloves, black pepper, fruit cake, oodles of (sweet) vanilla, toffee, caramel, honey, baked apple, sweet malt, drying, spicy oak (and even some sweet cedar wood aromas), all with a rich, lingering, satisfying finish. Another delicious limited edition from Glenfiddich. More, please. L’Chaim!

A review of Pacifica Evan’s Collection Pinot Noir 2010 and Meritage 2010 along with reviews of two Tomintoul Single Malt Scotches.

By Joshua E. London and Lou Marmon

Washington Jewish Week  March 22, 2012

Our next stop in the search for wines for this year’s seder is the Pacific Northwest. Relative newcomers to winemaking, both Washington state and Oregon have evolved rapidly to become world-class sources of distinctive white and red wines. Both states are divided by the Cascade Mountain range which separates the wet coastal region from a drier interior area. Known for bright pinot noir, floral riesling and fragrant pinot gris, Oregon’s wineries are mostly located in the valleys of the west side. Washington creates some profoundly delicious cabernet sauvignon, syrah and merlots from grapes grown in the more arid east.
 

In 2006 the proprietors of New Zealand’s Spencer Hill Estate, Phillip and Sheryl Jones, purchased 95 acres on Washington State’s Underwood Mountain and established the Pacifica Winery and its Pacifica Evan’s Collection label of wines. Producers of the kosher kiwi Goose Bay wines under arrangement with the Herzog family’s Royal Wine Corporation in Bayonne, N.J., the Jones partnered once again with Royal to establish the Northwest’s first dedicated kosher facility. Located across the Columbia River that separates the two states, Pacifica is ideally located to source grapes from both Washington and Oregon. Their first releases include a Washington State “Meritage” Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend and a Pinot Noir created from two Oregon vineyards.
 

Pinot noir is a notoriously problematic grape that is plagued with issues such as poor ripening, infections, extreme sensitivity to weather conditions and difficult fermentation. In Oregon, 2010 was a cooler than usual year and 2011 was so bad that the winery is not releasing a pinot noir from the vintage. Despite these issues their inaugural nonmevushal Pacifica Evan’s Collection Oregon Pinot Noir 2010 ($25) is delightful and this bodes well for the future of this winery. It opens with ripe cherry and oak scents which lead into flavors of black and red cherries, raspberry and plum with some mild smokiness along with mineral and herbal notes. Nicely balanced with good acidity and firm tannins it gets better in the glass, so you should consider decanting this before serving to smooth out the edges. The Pacifica Evan’s Collection Washington Meritage 2010 ($30) is a rich, dry, smooth and easy drinking blend of cabernet, merlot, malbec and petit verdot grapes, with aromas and flavors of dark fruits, berries, with a whisper of toasted coffee bean.
 

Spirits-wise, we thought we’d stay in the Speyside region of Scotland and spend time with a relatively youthful producer – the Tomintoul Distillery built in 1964. The distillery is situated in the “Strath” or valley between the Glenlivet Forest and the hills of Cromdale, east of the Avon River – the veritable heart of the Speyside region. Despite the beautiful, lush environs and pure spring water source, the site was not really suited for whisky production until modern transport options made distribution commercially viable. Hence the mid-1960s late start.
 

The distillery was named for the nearby Tomintoul village (population 300 or so).
 

The distillery, like nearly all distilleries of the region, was built to produce whisky for blending purposes, and although single malt releases from Tomintoul have been available since 1973, they remained relatively hard to come by until the 1990s. Even still, little was done until 2000 when Angus Dundee Ltd took over and revitalized the place and essentially (re)created the brand. At last word, less than 4 percent of the 3 million liters of whisky produced there annually is destined for single malt release -most still goes to blended whiskies. The distillery’s motto is “The Gentle Dram” and, mostly, this fits the whisky.
 

Angus Dundee Ltd is a London-based independent bottler and whisky blender. It has been around for over 50 years and exports globally. Its focus is primarily blends, though it has invested heavily in single malts, buying both Tomintoul and also the Glencadam Distillery in the Highlands. Angus Dundee also produces the great, if hard to find, “Mackillop’s Choice” label of independent bottlings, and the seemingly even harder to find “Montgomerie’s” label.
 

The man behind the whisky is Robert Fleming, whose family has been making whisky in the Speyside-Glenlivet region for four generations. He oversees all aspects of production, from still room to maturation and bottling. Tomintoul uses both American and European oak and offers a full range of whiskies, from a no-age statement heavily peated malt to a 33-year-old sherry-cask limited edition.
 
One other note of distinction: the whiskies are imported to the U.S. by Medek Wine & Spirits, a division of the Royal Wine Corporation (“Medek” is “Kedem” spelled backwards, a nod and wink to Royal’s original company name and the label of its hugely successful grape juice and Kiddush wine brand). Because of Tominotul’s connection to Royal, it was persuaded in July 2010 to obtain OU kosher certification for several of its single malts (10-, 14- and 16-year-old expressions).
 

Here then are two Tomintoul single malt whiskies to enjoy before and after Passover:
Tomintoul 10-year-old single malt Scotch whisky (40 percent abv; $35) is an excellent, easy-drinking, delicate, aperitif style whisky with a light, floral, malty, toffee nose, with additional notes on the palate of vanilla fudge, apples and lemon, toasted nuts, honey and malt on the finish.
 
Tomintoul 12-year-old Oloroso Sherry Finish Single malt Scotch whisky (40 percent abv; $60) is basically its 10-year-old whisky that has undergone an additional 18 months in ex-Oloroso Sherry casks. This additional European oak finish has added a more profound, fruitcake note to the bouquet, helping to deepen and enrich the whiskies’ otherwise slightly grassy, malty, toffee aroma, and fill out its body. This more muscular, slightly silkier whisky also has a comparatively spicy and chewy oak note to it, in addition to notes of wild berry, soft honey, malt, toffee, dried fruits, and a slight whisper of smoke. A rich, creamy and delicious 12-year-old whisky. L’Chaim!